Tooting is where South London’s contradictions collide in glorious, unfiltered technicolour. It’s a place where artisan bakeries and Poundland exist in perfect disharmony, where you can buy a samosa for 50p or a Negroni for £14 depending on which way you turn, and where the lido could be mistaken for a picturesque summer paradise or an endurance test for the foolhardy. It’s equal parts vibrant, scruffy, and inexplicably cool—a neighbourhood that refuses to be neatly defined.
A Brief History: Romans, Railways, and Roti
Tooting has been around for a while—long enough that even the Romans fancied a wander through its swamps. The name likely comes from the Anglo-Saxon tribe Totingas, though if you ask a local today, they’ll probably tell you it’s just ‘kind of near Balham.’
In the Victorian era, the arrival of the railway turned it from a quiet village into a bustling suburb, and by the mid-20th century, waves of immigration—particularly from South Asia and the Caribbean—transformed Tooting into the vibrant, multicultural hub it is today. In 2017, Lonely Planet bizarrely declared it one of the “coolest neighbourhoods in the world,” to which Tooting responded by carrying on exactly as it always had.
Getting There: A Northern Line Lottery
Tooting is served by two stops on the Northern Line: Tooting Broadway and Tooting Bec. If you’re coming from central London, hop on the Bank branch and prepare for the possibility of a mysterious ‘signal failure’ somewhere near Kennington.
Alternatively, the buses are plentiful (if slow), and if you’re cycling, you’re in for an adrenaline rush—Tooting’s roads are a lawless tangle of Deliveroo riders, impatient cab drivers, and the occasional lost soul trying to find parking.
Things to Do: Tooting’s Greatest Hits
1. Eat Your Way Through Curry Corridor
If Tooting had a love language, it would be curry. Upper Tooting Road is home to some of the best South Asian restaurants in London, from high-end spots to cheap, cheerful, BYOB institutions. Highlights include:
- Lahore Karahi – No-nonsense, always packed, and utterly fantastic.
- Dosa n Chutny – South Indian magic, with dosas the size of cricket bats.
- Mirch Masala – Where spice levels are taken as a challenge.
- Sree Krishna – A vegetarian favourite with a cult following.
Tooting’s food scene isn’t just about curry—there are also top-notch Somali, Caribbean, and Middle Eastern spots, as well as an increasing number of hipster-friendly sourdough pizza joints for those who need one.
2. Take the Plunge at Tooting Bec Lido
Tooting Bec Lido is the UK’s largest open-air freshwater swimming pool, famous for its rainbow-coloured changing huts and arctic temperatures. In summer, it’s a sun-drenched oasis; in winter, it’s a test of whether you secretly have Viking ancestry. The regulars swear by the life-changing effects of a freezing dip. Whether they’re right or just permanently numb is up for debate.
3. Get Lost in Tooting’s Markets
Tooting Market and Broadway Market are beautifully chaotic, offering everything from street food and vinyl records to fresh fish and knock-off designer handbags.
- Tooting Market is the trendier one—home to cocktail bars, hipster coffee shops, and indie boutiques that make you question whether you should start making your own ceramics.
- Broadway Market is scruffier but brilliantly authentic—where you can buy a sari, a bucket of plantains, and a questionable watch all in the same aisle.
4. Explore Tooting’s Pubs
Tooting’s pub scene is a mix of old-school boozers and gentrified gastro-pubs. Some favourites:
- The Antelope – Massive, buzzy, and full of people who moved from Clapham.
- The Selkirk – A hidden gem with a beer garden perfect for summer evenings.
- The Castle – Fancy, expensive, and undeniably lovely.
- The Ramble Inn – A classic Irish pub where the Guinness flows perfectly.
5. Admire (or Confuse Yourself With) Tooting’s Architecture
Tooting’s buildings are a mix of charming Edwardian terraces, post-war brutalism, and inexplicable gems. Look out for:
- The old Granada Cinema (now a mosque) – A stunning Art Deco masterpiece that once hosted Frank Sinatra and The Beatles.
- Du Cane Court – A vast, slightly eerie Art Deco apartment block with urban myths about it being earmarked as Nazi HQ if Britain had fallen.
- A suspicious number of former pubs turned into chicken shops – A uniquely Tooting phenomenon.
Living in Tooting: Gentrification vs. Real Life
Tooting has long been an affordable alternative to Clapham and Balham, though property prices have steadily risen as young professionals move in, lured by good food, great pubs, and a Northern Line connection that works about 80% of the time.
This means you get an unusual social mix—old-school Londoners, first-generation immigrants, and latte-drinking creatives all navigating the same streets. Expect to see someone in a £900 Canada Goose jacket queuing for a £3 kebab at 2 AM.
Rent is still (relatively) reasonable, but rising fast. If you’re prepared to live in a slightly damp Victorian terrace with six strangers and a shared bathroom, you might still find a deal.
Famous Faces of Tooting
Tooting has produced its fair share of notable figures, including:
- Sadiq Khan – Mayor of London, Tooting’s most famous son, and a man who will never miss an opportunity to tell you he’s from Tooting.
- George Cole – Legendary star of Minder, giving Tooting some proper cockney credentials.
- The Chuckle Brothers (sort of) – Filmed an episode of ChuckleVision here, which feels just as important.
Tooting: A Love Letter to Controlled Chaos
Tooting is loud, vibrant, and a little bit messy—but that’s what makes it brilliant. It’s a place where Michelin-recommended restaurants sit next to greasy spoons, where the lido will either refresh you or send you into shock, and where the markets feel like a treasure hunt with unpredictable rewards.
So, come to Tooting. Bring an appetite, a sense of adventure, and maybe a wetsuit.
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