Golders Green. Say the name, and depending on who you ask, you might hear a variety of associations—kosher bagels, grand suburban houses, the ghost of a much-loved Woolworths, or perhaps the biggest Sainsbury’s in North London. It’s a place with a quiet, unassuming charm, the kind of neighbourhood that doesn’t shout about itself but has plenty to say if you’re willing to listen.
A Brief History (With Just a Hint of Drama)
Once upon a time, Golders Green was exactly what its name suggests—a stretch of pastoral greenery, north of London. A few cottages, the odd farm, and not much else. This all changed with the arrival of the Golders Green Underground station in 1907, when London’s suburban sprawl kicked into gear and transformed it into the well-connected, middle-class enclave it remains today.
The 20th century brought waves of Jewish migration, particularly in the 1930s when many families fled persecution in Europe. As a result, Golders Green became one of London’s most significant Jewish hubs, home to synagogues, Jewish schools, kosher restaurants, and bookshops bursting with Hebrew texts. But it’s not just one-note; over the years, Golders Green has embraced new communities, from Japanese and Korean residents to an ever-growing South Asian presence, creating a wonderfully layered local identity.
The High Street: A Wholesome, Slightly Chaotic Mix
Golders Green’s high street is the kind of place where you can eat your way around the world without ever getting on a plane. At one end, you’ll find Carmelli’s, the famous kosher bakery that has been supplying bagels, challah, and cakes to generations of North Londoners. A few doors down, the classic salt beef sandwiches at Panzers will have you questioning whether you should ever eat anything else again.
If you veer slightly off course, Golders Green Road offers a feast of options, including Korean barbecue, sushi joints, and Persian grills that serve the kind of lamb kebabs you’d willingly write poetry about. There’s also a healthy (or not-so-healthy) scattering of late-night fried chicken and pizza places, because no London high street is complete without them.
Golders Hill Park: The Unexpected Green Escape
You’d be forgiven for thinking Golders Green is all suburban sprawl, but then you’d be missing out on one of its best-kept secrets: Golders Hill Park. Nestled next to the grand, sprawling Hampstead Heath, this little gem is a perfect Sunday afternoon escape, complete with a small zoo, a butterfly house, and a pond full of ducks that seem to have minor celebrity status among local children.
Golders Hill Park is also home to a rather unexpected but delightful feature: a deer enclosure. Nothing says ‘North London’ quite like casually stumbling across a herd of deer while on your way to grab a coffee.
The Legendary Golders Green Hippodrome
Back in the day, the Golders Green Hippodrome was one of London’s grand entertainment venues. Built in 1913, it hosted everything from vaudeville acts to major BBC broadcasts. The Beatles played here. So did the Rolling Stones. And in a slightly unexpected turn of events, it later became a hub for the London Jewish community and, more recently, an evangelical church.
The building still stands, its distinctive domed roof a nostalgic nod to its glittering past. Whether it will ever return to its showbiz heyday is uncertain, but for now, it remains a beloved local landmark.
The People of Golders Green: A True London Mix
One of the most wonderful things about Golders Green is that it doesn’t fit into any single mould. It’s a place where Orthodox Jewish families walk past Korean supermarkets, where Iranian bakeries sell their pastries next to traditional British cafes, and where Friday nights might mean Shabbat dinner for some and a trip to a late-night ramen joint for others.
It’s also home to one of London’s most famous crematoriums. Golders Green Crematorium has hosted the farewells of some true greats—Sigmund Freud, Bram Stoker, and Marc Bolan among them. It might seem an odd claim to fame, but in a way, it encapsulates Golders Green perfectly: a place where history, diversity, and the unexpected collide.
Golders Green isn’t the loudest or trendiest part of London. It doesn’t have the cool-kid credentials of Shoreditch, the grandeur of Mayfair, or the Instagram-friendly canals of Little Venice. But what it does have is something arguably more valuable—character, history, and a deep sense of community.
It’s a place where you can get lost in a bookshop full of rare Jewish texts, eat some of the best Middle Eastern food in the city, and stumble across a tiny park with deer all in the same afternoon. It might not be the London that makes the guidebooks, but it’s certainly one worth knowing.
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