Savile Row, a genteel Mayfair street nestled just off Regent Street, is less a location and more a shrine. A sanctuary for tailoring devotees, it is where fabric, form, and finesse converge to craft the world’s finest suits. The Row has been synonymous with sartorial splendor for over two centuries, a place where the tape measure wields more authority than the sword and where the needle is sharper than any razor wit.
But how did a narrow Georgian street achieve global tailoring supremacy, and what keeps it relevant in a world awash with fast fashion and online shopping? Let’s button up the history, peek behind the scenes, and explore the enduring allure of Savile Row.
The Tailor’s Tale: A History of Elegance
Savile Row began life in the early 18th century as part of the Burlington Estate, a development by Richard Boyle, the 3rd Earl of Burlington, to house London’s elite. Named after Lady Dorothy Savile, the Earl’s wife, the street initially hosted aristocrats rather than tailors. However, by the late 18th century, the dandies of London—a flamboyant coterie obsessed with sartorial perfection—had begun frequenting tailors on nearby Cork Street. Savile Row, still waiting for its star turn, watched in anticipation.
The real turning point came in the early 19th century when Beau Brummell, the original influencer and a close confidant of the Prince Regent (later George IV), revolutionized men’s fashion. Brummell championed understated, perfectly tailored clothing—a stark departure from the flamboyant wigs and ruffles of yesteryear. His ideals of clean lines, immaculate fits, and muted tones became the backbone of the modern suit. Tailors flocked to Savile Row to cater to this new standard, and the street soon became the epicenter of bespoke tailoring.
By the mid-19th century, the street had fully embraced its tailoring identity. The term bespoke—derived from garments being “spoken for” by clients—was coined here, and the street’s reputation soared. In 1846, Henry Poole & Co. opened shop, laying the cornerstone of Savile Row’s global acclaim. The firm not only dressed European royalty but also invented the tuxedo (known in Britain as the dinner jacket) for the Prince of Wales in 1865.
By the 20th century, Savile Row was the undisputed sartorial capital of the world. It clothed everyone from Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin to the Beatles and Mick Jagger, all while maintaining an aura of quiet exclusivity.
Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure: A Suit Above the Rest
The term bespoke often gets thrown around casually these days, but on Savile Row, it remains sacred. A bespoke suit is the Mount Everest of tailoring: arduous to achieve, breathtaking in result, and utterly unattainable for many.
Here’s the distinction:
• Bespoke involves a completely custom pattern created from scratch for the client. It requires numerous fittings and can take up to 80 hours of labor. The result is a suit that fits like a second skin, designed to flatter every idiosyncrasy of the wearer’s body.
• Made-to-measure, by contrast, modifies an existing pattern to suit the client’s measurements. It’s less personalized and significantly quicker to produce, though still far superior to off-the-rack options.
A bespoke suit from a Savile Row tailor can cost anywhere from £4,000 to £10,000 (or more), a testament to the craftsmanship and prestige involved.
Icons of the Row: Who’s Who in Tailoring Royalty
While the street has seen many illustrious houses, a few stand out as icons of the trade:
1. Henry Poole & Co.
As the granddaddy of Savile Row, Henry Poole is credited with pioneering bespoke tailoring. Their client list reads like a history book, featuring Napoleon III, Winston Churchill, and even Emperor Hirohito of Japan.
2. Huntsman
Known for its equestrian heritage and dramatic one-button jackets, Huntsman embodies the quintessential English aesthetic. It also inspired Kingsman, the fictional tailoring shop-cum-spy HQ in the eponymous film series.
3. Anderson & Sheppard
Established in 1906, Anderson & Sheppard is revered for its “drape cut,” a softer, looser style favored by Fred Astaire and Cary Grant. Their craftsmanship embodies a refined nonchalance.
4. Gieves & Hawkes
Situated at No. 1 Savile Row, this venerable house blends military precision with regal elegance. They’ve dressed every British monarch since George III, making them a cornerstone of royal tradition.
A Modern Stitch: The Row in the 21st Century
Savile Row has had to adapt to the 21st century, a period not always kind to tradition. The rise of fast fashion, changing dress codes, and soaring Mayfair rents have presented significant challenges.
However, the Row has responded with resilience. Many houses have embraced modern technology, offering online consultations and virtual fittings without compromising their bespoke ethos. Younger tailors, such as Kathryn Sargent (the first female head cutter on Savile Row) and rising stars at Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, have brought contemporary flair to the Row.
Collaborations with fashion brands and celebrities have also helped keep the Row in the spotlight. Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, and even the aforementioned Kingsman films have all drawn inspiration from Savile Row’s enduring mystique.
More Than Just Suits: The Craftsmanship Ecosystem
Tailoring on Savile Row extends beyond suits. The ecosystem includes skilled artisans specializing in everything from shirt-making to shoemaking, all committed to the same principles of bespoke excellence. Nearby Jermyn Street, for example, is home to world-class shirtmakers like Turnbull & Asser and Emma Willis.
Accessory makers like Lock & Co. Hatters (the oldest hat shop in the world) and Crockett & Jones (luxury shoemakers) add to the Row’s ecosystem, ensuring that no detail of a gentleman’s attire is overlooked.
Pop Culture and Patronage: The Row’s Influence
Savile Row’s influence reaches far beyond fashion. It has permeated pop culture, music, and even espionage.
The Beatles famously performed their final live concert on the rooftop of 3 Savile Row, then home to Apple Corps. This 1969 event, immortalized in Let It Be, added a touch of rock ’n’ roll to the street’s stately reputation.
Ian Fleming’s James Bond, arguably the most stylish spy in fiction, is regularly outfitted in Savile Row suits in both the books and films. Daniel Craig’s Bond even wears suits by Tom Ford, whose designs are steeped in Savile Row tradition.
Why Savile Row Still Matters
In an era of disposable fashion, Savile Row stands as a monument to permanence. It champions craftsmanship over convenience, individuality over conformity. To walk down the Row is to step into a world where excellence still matters, where a garment is more than just something you wear—it’s something you inhabit.
The Row remains a testament to the belief that what you wear should not only fit your body but reflect your character. A Savile Row suit whispers wealth, power, and timeless taste in a way that no Instagram haul ever could.
Final Thread: The Street That Stitched a Legacy
Savile Row is more than a street; it’s an institution, a tradition, and a promise. It’s where history is tailored into every stitch, where the past meets the present in a perfect seam.
Next time you are in Mayfair, take a stroll down Savile Row. Peer into the windows, marvel at the craftsmanship, and imagine the stories woven into those bespoke creations. You may not leave with a suit, but you’ll certainly leave inspired.
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