Few buildings in London pull off a reinvention quite like Somerset House. Originally a palatial riverside mansion, then a warren of government offices, and now a cultural powerhouse with an ice rink, a fountain-filled courtyard, and hidden tunnels that whisper of Tudor ghosts—this grand old dame has seen it all. If walls could talk, Somerset House’s would be gasping for breath.
A Palace for a Duke (and a Queen Who Wasn’t Impressed)
In 1547, Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset and ambitious Lord Protector for the young Edward VI, decided he needed a house befitting his rank. He set his sights on prime real estate on the Strand, then a fashionable stretch between the City of London and Westminster, and got to work building himself a palace. Unfortunately, his enthusiasm outstripped his luck—just five years later, he was executed for treason. The house, barely finished, was confiscated by the Crown.
Somerset House soon became a royal residence, housing notable tenants including Anne of Denmark, wife of James I, who reportedly hated the place so much she tore bits of it down and rebuilt it in grander style. By the time Oliver Cromwell and his Puritans stomped in, the house had settled into its role as a suitably stately home for important people who were mostly unhappy to be there.
The Navy Moves In (and Stays for 200 Years)
By the 18th century, Somerset House was looking a little worse for wear, and the government—always keen to economise by squeezing into historic buildings—decided to use it for offices. It was demolished and rebuilt into the imposing neoclassical structure we see today, designed by Sir William Chambers. The Navy Board set up shop, responsible for everything from shipbuilding to punishing rum rations, and they were soon joined by the Royal Academy of Arts, the Inland Revenue, and various other dusty bureaucratic bodies. It remained a civil service hub until the 20th century, when the creative crowd finally took over.
From Tax Returns to Turner
If you were a civil servant processing tax forms in 1970s Somerset House, you might have found it hard to picture its glamorous future. But by the 1990s, the government had packed up, and Somerset House was reborn as a centre for the arts. The Courtauld Gallery moved in, bringing its world-class collection, including Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear and masterpieces by Rubens and Turner. Soon, the building was filled with artists, musicians, and creatives instead of clerks and accountants.
Today, Somerset House is a hive of activity, home to creative studios, pop-up exhibitions, and seasonal events. In summer, the fountains in the courtyard become a playground for children and overheated office workers, while winter sees the arrival of the famous ice rink, transforming the space into the most stylish place to fall over in London.
Secrets Beneath the Stone
Somerset House is full of secrets, including a network of tunnels underneath it that once connected it to the river. In the 17th century, these tunnels were used for discreet royal arrivals and possibly for smuggling (because what’s the point of being a royal if you can’t sneak a few luxury goods past customs?). Today, they mostly serve as an atmospheric setting for history tours, though it’s fun to imagine a ghostly Anne of Denmark still stalking the corridors, grumbling about the décor.
A 21st-Century Playground for Art and Ideas
Now a hub of contemporary culture, Somerset House hosts everything from London Fashion Week to groundbreaking exhibitions. It’s home to Somerset House Studios, a creative space where artists and designers push the boundaries of their fields. Recent years have seen events exploring everything from climate change to AI-generated art, proving that this old building has plenty of modern tricks up its sleeve.
Film buffs will also recognise Somerset House as the site of Film4 Summer Screen, one of London’s most atmospheric open-air cinemas, where classic and contemporary films are screened under the stars in the grand courtyard. Meanwhile, the London Design Biennale brings together innovative thinkers and creatives from around the world, turning Somerset House into a showcase of cutting-edge design and ideas.
Music lovers, too, are in for a treat. The Somerset House Summer Series features intimate gigs by world-renowned artists, transforming the courtyard into a dreamy festival-like space in the heart of London. Past performers have included Florence + The Machine, The xx, and Sampha.
One of the biggest seasonal highlights is the Somerset House Ice Rink, a winter tradition that sees the grand courtyard transformed into a stunning outdoor skating rink. With twinkling lights, festive music, and a backdrop of elegant Georgian architecture, it’s one of the most magical places to skate in the city. The rink also hosts Skate Lates, featuring DJs and live music, making it a perfect destination for both families and late-night revellers looking for a festive spin on a night out.
And then there’s the 24/7 exhibition, exploring our always-on culture, and Earth Day celebrations, which bring environmental activism into the heart of the city. Somerset House has become a place where history and modernity collide, where the grandeur of the past meets the urgent questions of the present.
Whether you visit for the art, the ice skating, or just to sit in the courtyard pretending you live in a Netflix period drama, Somerset House remains one of London’s most fascinating landmarks. A place where history, creativity, and the occasional ghost all mingle under one magnificent roof.
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