Tucked away on Dean Street in London’s vibrant Soho, The French House is much more than just a pub. It’s a living piece of history, a meeting place for artists, writers, politicians, and everyone in between. Known for its no-nonsense charm, commitment to French style, and quirky rules, The French House is both a local institution and a hidden gem that embodies Soho’s eclectic spirit.
A Legendary Past
The French House opened in 1891 as “The York Minster,” but it gained its current name and legendary reputation during World War II. When Charles de Gaulle fled to London after France’s fall, The French House became his unofficial headquarters. There, he famously delivered speeches to rally support for the Free French Forces, and in 1942, his “À tous les Français” call to resistance was reportedly written within its walls. A plaque inside commemorates this moment, adding to the pub’s storied allure. The pub officially took on its current name in 1984, embracing its deep connection with French culture and London’s bohemian past.
The Charismatic Gaston Berlemont
Much of the charm and legend of The French House is thanks to one man: Gaston Berlemont, the pub’s beloved landlord for almost four decades. Born above the pub to a French father who had moved to London, Gaston grew up in The French House, and in many ways, he embodied its spirit. Taking over from his father as landlord in the 1940s, Gaston ran the pub with a unique blend of warmth, eccentricity, and an unmistakable French flair that drew people from all walks of life.
With his thick French accent, always-cheerful demeanor, and a touch of mystique, Gaston was as much a fixture as the pub itself. His welcoming presence helped transform The French House into a second home for writers, artists, actors, and even the odd politician. He was known for greeting patrons with a smile and a “Bonjour,” whether they were regulars or new faces. Gaston’s charm made The French House a place where everyone felt at home, and he cultivated an atmosphere that celebrated creativity, conversation, and camaraderie.
As one regular once put it, “Gaston didn’t just serve drinks; he served community.” His geniality, paired with an intuitive knack for storytelling, gave The French House its air of understated elegance and authenticity. Gaston remained the landlord until the late 1980s, and even after retiring, he continued to be a presence, visiting often and catching up with old friends. He passed away in 1988, but his influence remains woven into the very fabric of the pub.
“Half-Pints Only, S’il Vous Plaît”
One of the quirkiest traditions of The French House is that they serve beer only in half-pints. Order a full pint here, and you’ll receive a wry smile and a gentle reminder of house rules. The story goes that this tradition started as a way to keep conversations lively and patrons engaged with one another instead of glued to the bottom of a pint glass. In a place where legends have lingered over countless conversations, it’s easy to see why half-pints have become a quirky but endearing custom. After all, isn’t half the fun of The French House learning its little eccentricities?
A Haven for Artists, Writers, and Eccentrics
Over the years, The French House has welcomed some of the most celebrated creative minds. Dylan Thomas, the Welsh poet with a well-known love for pubs, was a regular and is rumored to have left behind his manuscript for Under Milk Wood after one too many half-pints. The legendary painter Francis Bacon frequented the bar, as did Lucian Freud and other big names in the British art scene. Writer and notorious drinker Jeffrey Bernard was also a fan, famously penning his Spectator column “Low Life” about his Soho escapades, many of which played out at The French House.
Today, the spirit of creativity is alive and well, with modern-day artists and writers mingling with locals, tourists, and anyone who appreciates a good story. It’s not unusual to hear someone discussing philosophy at one table, and an actor rehearsing lines at the next. As The French House’s landlord once said, “It’s one of the few places left where you can be yourself.” And here, being yourself is celebrated, even if that self is a little eccentric.
Embracing Traditions in Modern Times
The French House has famously held onto its “no music, no machines, and no mobiles” rule, encouraging people to converse, debate, and occasionally break into song. It’s an oasis in a world of smartphones and Spotify playlists, a rare place where people actually talk to each other. You’ll find no televisions blaring sports scores, no loud music drowning out conversation, and, ideally, no phones buzzing. This old-fashioned charm keeps patrons in the moment, immersed in Soho’s character and in The French House’s unique atmosphere.
Another long-standing tradition is its legendary Mardi Gras celebration, held each year on Shrove Tuesday. Costumes, laughter, and a bit of revelry turn The French House into a lively, colorful scene reminiscent of an old-world French festival. It’s one of the pub’s most beloved events, a day when regulars and newcomers alike join in a true French House celebration.
The Perfect Pint of Wine?
True to its name, The French House is as much a wine bar as it is a pub, with a carefully curated list of French wines. While you can find beer on tap (again, only in half-pints), it’s the wine that draws many of The French House’s patrons. If you ask, the bartenders will tell you their wine list is an ode to French heritage and tradition, with selections that honor both classic and lesser-known French regions.
Alongside its wines, the pub is famous for its brandy and pastis, offering a distinctly French drinking experience. Rumor has it that even during wartime, The French House managed to serve brandy without interruption, thanks to some clever rationing and a healthy dose of local charm.
The French House Today: A Step Back in Time
Despite its age, The French House still feels as lively and authentic as ever. Walking in, you’re greeted with the original dark wood bar, photos of past patrons, and memorabilia commemorating its colorful past. It’s the kind of place where everyone, from curious tourists to long-time regulars, feels at home.
While Soho has transformed around it, The French House has remained steadfast, resisting trends and preserving its eccentric soul. Gaston’s spirit lives on, too, in the pub’s dedication to friendliness, creativity, and authenticity. It’s a place where you can imagine Dylan Thomas, Francis Bacon, or Jeffrey Bernard nursing a drink and exchanging sharp quips with friends.
So, if you’re in Soho and looking for a true London experience, take a trip to The French House. Order a half-pint, embrace the pub’s quirky rules, and soak up the history around you. In a city of constant change, The French House remains a timeless tribute to the spirit of Soho — bohemian, lively, and always up for a bit of conversation.
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