With Thomas Cromwell back on TV screens in the adaptation of Hilary Mantle’s The Mirror and The Light, Londonopia looks at Cromwell’s London and what still remains.
London in the Age of Thomas Cromwell: A Journey Through History and the Present
Step back into the 1530s, a turbulent time in English history dominated by King Henry VIII’s sweeping reforms and the rise of his formidable minister, Thomas Cromwell. The London of Cromwell’s time was a bustling, dirty, fascinating city of around 50,000 inhabitants—tiny by today’s standards but the beating heart of Tudor England. Today, many sites in the capital whisper echoes of this dramatic period, offering a glimpse into the world Cromwell knew.
Cromwell’s London: A Snapshot
The London of the Tudor period was a medieval city rapidly transitioning into a Renaissance powerhouse. The Thames was the city’s lifeline, teeming with merchant vessels, barges, and watermen ferrying passengers. London Bridge was crammed with shops and homes, often precariously overhanging the river, making it a chaotic thoroughfare for traders and citizens alike.
The city was noisy and aromatic (not in a good way), with open sewers running down the streets and the ever-present smell of tanneries, breweries, and markets. Yet, it was also vibrant, with bustling markets like Smithfield and Cheapside, a burgeoning merchant class, and a court that set the stage for political intrigue.
Cromwell’s Role in Shaping London
Thomas Cromwell (1485–1540) was the son of a Putney blacksmith who rose to become one of Henry VIII’s most trusted advisors. He was instrumental in orchestrating the King’s divorce from Catherine of Aragon, the dissolution of monasteries, and the subsequent redistribution of monastic wealth. These actions reshaped London’s landscape, as former religious buildings became private homes, schools, or were left to decay.
Cromwell himself lived in a grand house in Austin Friars, near present-day Liverpool Street. While his home no longer stands, the area retains traces of its medieval history. Cromwell’s reforms also brought educational and legal changes, laying the groundwork for London’s modern identity.
London Landmarks from Cromwell’s Time
1. The Tower of London
A fortress, palace, and prison, the Tower loomed large in Cromwell’s life. It was here that Anne Boleyn, the queen he helped install, was executed. Cromwell himself would meet a similar fate just a few years later. The Tower remains one of London’s most iconic sites, offering a fascinating glimpse into Tudor politics and justice.
2. Hampton Court Palace
Though not in central London, Hampton Court is closely tied to Cromwell’s era. The palace, originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, was seized by Henry VIII after Wolsey’s fall—a fate orchestrated in part by Cromwell. Wander through the Tudor kitchens and Great Hall to imagine the opulence and drama of the period.
3. St. Paul’s Cathedral (Old St. Paul’s)
The medieval St. Paul’s Cathedral, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, dominated the Tudor skyline. It was a hub of commerce, gossip, and religious discourse. While the current cathedral is a later Baroque masterpiece, the area around St. Paul’s Churchyard remains steeped in history.
4. Westminster Hall
Cromwell would have frequented Westminster Hall as both a lawyer and a statesman. Built in 1097, it was the site of grand banquets, trials, and ceremonies. Today, it’s part of the Houses of Parliament, standing as a testament to London’s enduring political legacy.
5. The Thames
In Tudor times, the Thames was London’s superhighway. Cromwell would have often traveled by barge, avoiding the muddy, narrow streets. Today, you can hop on a riverboat and cruise past landmarks like the Tower, recreating the experience—albeit with fewer rats.
What Remains of Cromwell’s World Today
Dissolution of Monasteries and Their Aftermath
One of Cromwell’s most significant impacts was the dissolution of monasteries. Buildings like the Priory of St. John in Clerkenwell were closed and repurposed. While the priory is mostly gone, the surviving gatehouse now houses the Museum of the Order of St. John. Other monasteries, like Blackfriars, gave their names to modern neighborhoods.
Smithfield Market
Smithfield was a bustling meat market in Cromwell’s day, but it was also a place of executions. Protestants and Catholics alike were burned here during the Reformation. Today, Smithfield Market remains an active trading hub, though its dark history is preserved in stories and plaques.
Austin Friars
Cromwell’s home at Austin Friars is long gone, but the street name endures. Nearby, you’ll find remnants of the area’s monastic past, such as the Dutch Church, built on the site of the former Austin Friars Priory.
Walking in Cromwell’s Footsteps
To experience Cromwell’s London, start with a historical walking tour. Begin at the Tower of London, wander through the City of London to Austin Friars, and end at Smithfield. Along the way, detour into alleys and churchyards to find hidden remnants of Tudor London.
Modern touches also add context. The Museum of London has excellent exhibits on the Tudor period, including artifacts from the dissolution of monasteries and Henry VIII’s reign.
Why Cromwell’s London Matters Today
Cromwell’s era marked a turning point in London’s history. His dissolution of monasteries redistributed wealth and land, altering the city’s fabric. This tumultuous period also laid the groundwork for religious and political reforms that continue to influence Britain.
As you explore London today, you can see how the city has evolved from its medieval roots to a global metropolis. Yet, in places like the Tower, Hampton Court, and Smithfield, the spirit of Cromwell’s London lingers.
London in Thomas Cromwell’s time was a city of contrasts—opulent palaces alongside squalid slums, rigid traditions clashing with revolutionary ideas. Today, visitors can trace Cromwell’s influence across the capital, from ancient landmarks to modern streets bearing the names of dissolved monasteries.
By stepping into Cromwell’s world, you don’t just learn about history—you feel the heartbeat of a city that has always been a stage for drama, ambition, and change. Whether it’s a visit to the Tower or a stroll along the Thames, you’ll find that London’s Tudor past is never far from view.
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